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11887 Products Found
TAMIYA MPN: 23648-600 Tamiya Scania R470 Full Optioned Blue Finished. - 79-T23648
$1,776.06 $1,669.49
On Sale
TAMIYA MPN: 47500-600 Tamiya Gt Four (St185) White Painted Body 4Wd Touring R/C Car Kit
$228.69 $214.97
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TAMIYA MPN: 47510-600 Tamiya Gt-Four Tt-02 R/C Car Kit Black Painted Body - 47510-600
$247.17 $232.34
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TAMIYA MPN: 47516-600 Tamiya Volkswagen Golf II GTI 16V Pre-Painted 1/10 RC Kit – MB-01
$282.98 $266.00
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TAMIYA MPN: 47519-600 Tamiya Rc 1/10 Mercedes-Amg Gt3 Evo - Orange Painted Body (Tt-02)
$311.85 $293.14
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TAMIYA MPN: 47525-600 Tamiya Rc 1/10 Mercedec-Benz 190 E Evo Ii - Black/Silver Painted
$294.53 $276.86
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RC Cars FAQ
Q: How do I decide between a kit, an RTR, or an "Almost Ready" car as a starting point?
A: RTR cars come fully assembled with electronics installed, the fastest way to get driving. Kits require full assembly, including fitting your own electronics, best if you want to learn the mechanics and customise from the start. "Almost Ready" sits in between, mostly built but missing key components like a radio or battery. If this is your first RC car, RTR removes the most guesswork.
Q: What's actually different between "on-road" and "off-road" cars beyond the tyres?
A: Ground clearance, suspension travel, and chassis stiffness all differ. On-road cars sit low with stiff suspension for precise cornering on smooth surfaces. Off-road cars have longer suspension travel and higher clearance to absorb impacts on rough terrain. Using an on-road car off-road (or vice versa) isn't just less fun, it accelerates wear on parts not built for that stress.
Q: Is "RC Racing" a separate category of car, or performance parts for cars I already have?
A: Looking at what's listed under RC Racing, it's largely race-oriented gear and components (setup tools, tyres, kit spares, body paints) rather than standalone cars, it's the category for upgrading or maintaining a car you're racing competitively, not a starting point for buying your first car.
Q: Should a first-time buyer go electric or nitro?
A: Electric is simpler: charge, run, no fuel mixing or engine tuning. Nitro needs ongoing maintenance (glow plugs, fuel, tuning) but rewards that upkeep with longer run times and a different power delivery favoured by experienced hobbyists. Nitro is a poor first purchase if you just want to drive, not maintain an engine.
Q: What makes a "drift" car different from a regular on-road car if they both run on smooth surfaces?
A: Drift cars use low-grip tyres deliberately, and often a gyro or different diff setup, specifically to let the rear end slide in a controlled way. A standard on-road car is tuned for grip and cornering speed, the opposite goal. Don't expect a regular on-road car to drift well, or a drift car to be quick around a track.
